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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.